{"id":4855,"date":"2021-10-22T16:00:00","date_gmt":"2021-10-22T21:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.snaservices.com\/?p=4855"},"modified":"2021-10-18T12:04:58","modified_gmt":"2021-10-18T17:04:58","slug":"sbw54-kitchen-cabinet-build-part-22-lets-make-doors","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.snaservices.com\/index.php\/sbw54-kitchen-cabinet-build-part-22-lets-make-doors\/","title":{"rendered":"SBW#54 \u2013 Kitchen Cabinet Build Part 22 \u2013 Lets Make Doors"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

After lots of prepping and getting our components cut I start out by routing all the rails and stiles with my rail and stile bit set<\/a>. The bit set I’m using for these doors is a Shaker profil<\/a>e<\/a> bit set. It’s simple and does not have an overbearing design for these simple cabinets that I’m building.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I use the stile bit to cut all the inside profiles for the rails and stiles. This bit cuts the 10-degree angle for the Shaker profile<\/a> as well as cuts the groove into which the door panel will fit into.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Next, I swap out my stile bit with the rail bit. This bit will cut the rail ends which will mate with the stile bit profile. I’m using the Rockler Rail Coping Sled<\/a> to hold the rails because with such small pieces that need to be held perpendicular to the fence you need the right support and stability to avoid getting hurt or messing up your piece.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I make a few test cuts with a scrap first to get it dialed in perfectly then I proceed in cutting all the rail ends. All the way before I got too far in I reset my rip fence because it was causing the cut to get off just a little as the piece slid past the bit.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

After many rail cuts later it’s time to assemble the first door. I’m doing this on a large sheet of paper that will protect my tabletop from glue drops.<\/p>\n\n\n\n