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SBW#61 – Kitchen Cabinet Build Part 27 – Lazy Susan Doors

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When I started planning my new kitchen cabinets I knew one of the most difficult cabinets that I would do would be the two corner cabinets. Yes, two! The base and the upper. The upper cabinet is set that forms a blind corner cabinet. This article though is going to focus not on those but on the base cabinet’s doors.

This base cabinet can be called a Lazy Susan cabinet although I did not choose to put Lazy Susan hardware in and instead decided to use overlapped stack shelving as can be seen in this article. However, the doors for this cabinet are still the same. They are a pair of doors that open only from one side and are connected with a bifold hinge.

Now because I could not find Blum corner cabinet hinges that provided a 1 1/4″ overlay at the time I had to go with a Salice hinge. I never had used a Salice hinge let alone a set for a bifold door.

So, let us get to getting the doors set up.

After picking up a Salice Pie Corner Hinge Kit and began by reading the instructions. As with all the Euro hinges they pretty much use the metric system so I had to use my stainless steel ruler, which has both standard and metric, to measure out where the placement would go.

After determining the placement I used my Kreg Concealed Hinge Jig to make sure I was drilling the 35mm cups in the right locations. I really do enjoy this jig because it makes quick repeatable drilling easy.

Door one is the only door that gets hinge cups drilled into it. It gets these cups on both sides of the interior portion of the door. One side is for the hinge that mounts the door to the cabinet and the other is for the bifold hinge.

Next, I needed to make a throwaway backing board jig to clamp up against the face frame of the cabinet. These Salice hinges split the difference of 35mm hold with half in the frame and the other half in the air. Drilling this without a backing board would have been impossible. In addition, since my face frames are pretty small at only 1 1/2″ wide I needed to drill part of that 35mm hole into the side of the cabinet.

Of course, things didn’t go exactly as planned because to avoid scratching the paint on my face frames I used a paper towel to protect the surface. I believe because of that, lack of clamping pressure and the weight of the drill/bit the jig slid down some which caused the hole to drill not straight in but at a downward angle.

To solve this I simply used my Dremel with a carving bit to scour out the side of the cabinet carcass a little so the hinge with going in perpendicular to the face frame.

The next step was to predrill the holes for the cabinet side hinges and mount them. While my video angle was really bad it is pretty straightforward. I just needed to put the hinge in the semicircle holes and mark the hole patterns and then pilot them out.

I mounted the hinges and went back to the shop to mount the door-side hinges. I test fitted them on the cabinet and discovered I had put the door side hinge in the wrong location. A quick trip back to the shop fixed that and while doing so I mounted the bifold hinge.

Test fitted the cabinet door and it was great. I then just snapped the second door’s bifold hinge together and wallah! Except I had to adjust them a little which is why I left them loose so I could get the doors to close properly.

Everything tightened up and the door attachment with this new hinge brand was good. While doing so I even had a visitor come oversee what I was doing. You’ll have to watch the video for that though.

That’s pretty much it on how I attached these corner cabinet bifold doors. You can check out the video below to watch the entire process.

As always if you have any questions or comments post them below or on my YouTube video comments section and I’ll do my best to respond.

I’ve included a few Amazon Links below for the equipment and materials I used.

Equipment and Materials

I hope you find this video useful and can use some of the tips presented. Feel free to leave any comments, suggestions, or experiences you have had below.

Some of the links in my video description and article above are Amazon Affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. If you would like to make a different purchase from Amazon, you can also use the storewide link.


Looking for a Gift Idea? Visit the Amazon Gift Hub
Or Check out our Deal of the Day page in the Top Right of the Menu

Looking for athletic clothing? Try Baleaf BaleafReceive 10% off when you use my coupon code: SEANMOENKHOFF


SBW#60 – Massive Router Sled

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I am in the process of building a new workbench for my shop. This is no ordinary workbench either. The workbench measures nearly 7 feet by 2 feet created by laminating 2 x 6 Southern Yellow Pine that has been ripped in half to create 2 x 3 boards. Since my planer cannot handle this large of material I needed to build a router sled to flatten the surface.

This sled is capable of flattening material nearly 4 feet wide and 8 feet long. Yes, it’s massive but very versatile.

In this article, I will show you how I build this massive accessory for my shop and how it works so let’s get started.

The first thing I wanted to do build was a carriage for my router. Since I wanted a large sled, I chose the largest router I have – my Triton router measuring nearly 6.5 inches across the baseplate. This was important as I needed the carriage to be this width plus a little extra so the router would not bind while sliding back and forth in the carriage.

Once I had this I started cutting the material for the carriage out of 3/4 inch baltic birch plywood. I started by cutting the base, followed by the two sides. Since the two sides would ride on the base needed to be the router width plus the width of two sides and a little extra. For me, this was 6.5″ + (2 x 3/4″) + a little extra. That little extra was 1/2″ because I didn’t want too much slop in the movement. I cut a total of the slats for the sides, one of each side and one to be used for the end.

Once I had the base material cut I used my Kreg K4 Master System to pocket hole the sides. I chose this method rather than screwing from the underside of the base so I wouldn’t have to countersink the screws, plus, it would keep the base nice and clean of potential snag points.

The next step in the process was to ensure the router would be centered in the carriage base so I could cut out the routing slot. Once I got it centered I drew a circle representing the bit hole in the router base. I would make this circle at both ends of the carriage base. The protractor I was using opened up a little when I did the second hole resulting in the larger hole than I wanted however, I caught this when I remeasured the router base hole and my drawn holes.

I then drew lines between the two circles as I’d need to cut along here to open up a path for the router bit to travel.

I then measured the end so I could cut the end piece that is going to hang over the guide rail. This will allow the carriage not to slide off the guide rails when using it.

Next, I sanded down the carriage so it was smooth and didn’t have any burs with my random orbital sander.

After sanding it down I used my hole saw to cut out the two end holes. I made the mistake of not trying to clamp this down and that didn’t work too well. I figured this out pretty quick and clamped the piece down so I could use both hands to hold the drill.

After drilling the holes it was time to cut the slit. There are many ways you can go about doing this from using a jigsaw, handsaw, scroll saw or even a table saw. Whichever way you choose make sure to be safe about it.

I choose to use my table saw and do a plunge cut. While I did not do it the safest way it was a way that I was taught many years ago and have done many times. Even so, it makes me nervous as hell as you can easily get a kickback. Ideally, you’d clamp the material down and raise the blade to do this type of cut, however, I did not. When doing this type of cut, it is VERY important not to stand directly behind the piece you’re cutting because if you do have kickback you don’t want to be in line with it.

Next, I took a wood rasp and cleaned up the saw marks into the hole cuts.

I then began the assembly by attaching the sides. I used glue and pocket screws. I used my Kreg Right Angle Clamp to hold the side in place while I screwed it. Once I did the sides, I did both ends. I started by pilot hole drilling so I wouldn’t split the ends. For the non-guided end, I also used pocket screws.

Next, I moved on to the guild rails. These would be constructed using the truest 1 x 6 and 2 x 4 material I had. The 1 x 6 would provide the base and the 2 x 4 would be screwed onto it. for a T shape. I pilot hole drilled all the screw holes first so the boards would not split in any way. I ensured each hole was countersunk using my countersink bit. I then used my small slide square to ensure the 2 x 4 was dead center in the 1 x 6 before screwing them together using Kreg Pocket Screws. This was not glued so I could adjust as necessary.

I visually checked the guide rail for straight using the line of sight method. This is a method where you look down the board and you should not see any bows or dips in the board. The end should disappear as soon as you line it up with the other end. I repeated for the other guide rail.

With the 2 x 4 centered in the 1 x 6, it allows for clamping on each end of the guide rail to hold it down. It also allows for the piece you’re flattening to ride on the inside lip.

I then proceeded to finish sanding the carriage so it was really smooth. I did this using my DeWalt palm sander, taking precautions to use my Eclipse respirator to keep the fine dust particles out of my lungs and earmuffs. To keep vibrations down I used Rockler Bench Cookies to hold the carriage off my existing workbench.

After sanding it smooth I used Johnson’s paste wax to was the carriage at any point where the router might hit.

And with that, that is pretty much it. This massive router sled is complete. You’ll get to see it use in my Workbench Series so stay tuned for that.

As always if you have any questions or comments post them below or on my YouTube video comments section and I’ll do my best to respond.

I’ve included a few Amazon Links below for the equipment and materials I used.

Equipment and Materials

I hope you find this video useful and can use some of the tips presented. Feel free to leave any comments, suggestions, or experiences you have had below.

Some of the links in my video description and article above are Amazon Affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. If you would like to make a different purchase from Amazon, you can also use the storewide link.


Looking for a Gift Idea? Visit the Amazon Gift Hub
Or Check out our Deal of the Day page in the Top Right of the Menu

Looking for athletic clothing? Try Baleaf BaleafReceive 10% off when you use my coupon code: SEANMOENKHOFF


Some of the links on this site are Amazon Affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.