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SBW#56 – Kitchen Cabinet Build Part 23 – Cabinet End Wainscoting

In building my kitchen cabinets I did not want just plain boring cabinet ends but I also did not want over-the-top cabinet ends. So I believe I came up with an elegant solution that is both easy to do and matches the front of my cabinets – Shaker Style Wainscoting on the ends!

First, what is wainscoting? Wainscoting simply put is wooden paneling that lines part of a panel. In my case, it would mimic the Shaker door rail and stile profile I was currently using including the thickness from the panel in the door.

Now that we have that out of the way how did I go about doing this? Well, my Rockler Router Bit Set-Up Jig Shaker Stile and Rail Router Bits would provide the profile design. I just needed to use the top 3rd of the jig profile – that little part that contains the 10-degree cut angle.

My first step was to rip some 1/4″ thick material the same width as door frame rails and stiles. This would create the uniformity I was looking for. However, rather than just rip it at 90 degrees, I would set the saw blade to 80 degrees and rip that slanted edge into it.

Once I had the material ripped I needed to cut the end profile cut. This was done at my compound miter saw by setting the bevel at 10 degrees and laying the material flat on the bed. You could use this same cut on the table saw if you’re careful using a crosscut sled or a miter gauge. You could also do this same cut at a non-compound miter saw by setting the angle to 10 degrees and cutting the material on the edge but you’d have to make sure you were cutting with the material in the right orientation. For me, a 10-degree bevel on the compound and flat material was the easiest and most accurate.

I only cut 1 end as I wanted the other end to be the tightest I could get. So after clamping the style parts to the side of the cabinets I marked and cut the other end by slowing shaving off as little as possible until I got the perfect fit.

Now, because I knew I was going to do this from the beginning I knew I didn’t have to deal with any staples or pocket hole screws on the finished cabinet sides as this was a great cover for those.

So, I put glue on each piece and pin-nailed them down with my 23 gauge pin nailer. This provided near-invisible pins that are easily hidden and require minimal filling later. After 3 of the 4 slats were glued and pinned onto the sides I clamped and weighted them down for the glue to setup up. This is where the real fastening strength was coming from.

After completing all these mechanical and chemical fastening steps I proceeded to fill any pins or cracks with wood filler. This would allow for a perfectly smooth finish.

I then sanded the all for wainscoting slats down with my random orbital sander down to 220 grit sandpaper.

The final part of this puzzle will come after I attach the face frames to the cabinet carcasses in which the final wainscoting stile would cover up the pocket hole screws.

And for those who want some stats, the video below is a result of 19 videos totaling 32 minutes, 21 seconds edited down to 7 minutes, and 35 seconds.

As always if you have any questions or comments post them below or on my YouTube video comments section and I’ll do my best to respond.

I’ve included a few Amazon Links below for the equipment and materials I used.

Equipment and Materials

I hope you find this video useful and can use some of the tips presented. Feel free to leave any comments, suggestions, or experiences you have had below.

Some of the links in my video description and article above are Amazon Affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. If you would like to make a different purchase from Amazon, you can also use the storewide link.


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SBW#55 – Fix a Loose Towel Bar

So I ended up less than 1 year out of the hardware that came with my towel bar before it started wobbling. I was disappointed in this but hey, it was still under the contractor’s warranty that remodeled my bathroom so I called them up. They sent someone out to make the repair and it appeared to last for about another year and then was wobbling again to my disappointment.

This would be the first time I’ve had the same thing fail from this contractor that has always done top-notch work for me. So, I decided to tackle it myself. Towel Bars are not that hard to install, after all, I had updated the ones in my other bathroom several years before this remodel so they were no longer outdated.

Bring out the tools one by one because for some reason, I’ve misplaced my tool belt and I didn’t want to dig out my tool bag. I only need a half dozen items to make this repair so I could easily carry them in hand.

My first thought is perhaps the set screw is loose. This is the little screw, typically an Allen screw is located on the underside of something that had maybe come loose. I grabbed the appropriate size bit and attempted to tighten it up with my magnetic bit handle screwdriver, however, the towel bar stem was still loose. Okay. so not this issue, I’ll need to dig deeper.

I unscrewed the Allen screw and took the stem and bar off the wall. This is when I discovered the screw holding the hardware to the wall was actually loose. So, I attempted to tighten it with my screwdriver it but it just spun and figured, yeah, it is just stripped out in the wall because it’s not into a stud and only in drywall. I pulled the little plastic wall anchors out with my needle-nose pliers.

I procured some hollow wall anchors. I knew these would do the trick. So, the next thing I needed to do was drill out the hole to the diameter according to the hollow wall anchor instructions with my cordless drill. I hammered them in and feed the screw through the towel rack mounting hardware screwing it into the wall anchor. Once I had both screws in I tightened them down so they were sturdy and the hardware no longer wobbled.

Bingo! This took care of the problem.

I notice the other side had a slight wobble so I did the same for that side as well.

Now, all I had to do was reinstall the stems ensuring that I put the rod back in before securing the last stem with the set screw.

I cleaned up the mess from drilling out the plaster/drywall (as my walls are 1/2″ plaster over 1/4″ drywall). I put the towel back on the towel bar so everyone would be happy when washing their hands and the project was completed.

And for those who want some stats, the video below is a result of 19 videos totaling 13 minutes, 26 seconds edited down to 6 minutes, and 54 seconds. You may notice in my videos some elements are changing as I learn what works best.

As always if you have any questions or comments post them below or on my YouTube video comments section and I’ll do my best to respond.

I’ve included a few Amazon Links below for the equipment and materials I used.

Equipment and Materials

I hope you find this video useful and can use some of the tips presented. Feel free to leave any comments, suggestions, or experiences you have had below.

Some of the links in my video description and article above are Amazon Affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. If you would like to make a different purchase from Amazon, you can also use the storewide link.


Looking for a Gift Idea? Visit the Amazon Gift Hub
Or Check out our Deal of the Day page in the Top Right of the Menu