Category Archives: SBW

SBW#14 – Graber Vertical Blind Repair

My vertical blinds started getting some slats that were no longer turning. My first thought was to replace the entire blinds so they matched the others in the house but after getting a price estimate I decided that was no longer an option. After all, fixing something many times is much more cost effective than replacing something outright. So I decided I would try to repair them instead

In this video I’m repair my Graber Vertical Blinds which have been in my house since I purchased it many years ago. I don’t remember exactly when but one of the center slats was not turning anymore. I pretty much just wrote it off as okay, I will ignore it or eventually getting around to fixing it.

As time progressed this one slat plus the how close my couch was to them started causing others near not to turn. Still rather than correct the problems we decided to ignore them and only correct the effects rather than the symptoms. Well as more time progressed the blinds became increasingly annoying to open or close because the slats were interfering with each other. Now was the time to address the issue.

Initially as I stated we thought about updating them to match the other blinds in our house – only to be shell shocked by the price estimate. We knew what the other ones cost but the estimate came in for this one – nearly $800 for just this one and not the same brand but a less expensive one. Yeah – no thanks and the decision became can I repair them. I fixed the stems but didn’t realize there was a missing scissor track gear when I ordered my parts.

This video illustrates how I went about replacing the failed components which took less than 60 minutes to complete.

Parts Used

VB-STEM – Vertical Blind Carrier Clip from Fix My Blinds.

SBW#13 – Moen Extensa Kitchen Faucet Repair

So I own a Moen Extensa Kitchen Faucet. This particular model has been discontinued but is still a great working faucet that has Moen’s Lifetime Warranty. So whenever anything goes wrong I take a picture or two, write up a short summary of the issues on Moen’s warranty claim and wait for the parts.

In this video I’m repairing the faucet with a new Dome, Handle and Handle Adapter Assembly. My faucet is the Chrome model but others will have nearly the same kits except for the Dome (and any other parts that are on the surface). This faucet has a heavy handle which appears to cause issues over time – nearly 1lb. This time the dome managed to pop up and got damaged to the point where in order to shut the faucet off we had to push down at the point where the faucet connects to the handle hardware and cartridge.

This video illustrates how I went about replacing the failed components which only took about 30 minutes to complete.

All the parts in this video were covered by Moen’s excellent lifetime warranty.
Moen Warranty Information

Moen Parts Illustration

Parts Used

100429 – Handle Adapter
100439 – Dome
100440 – Handle Hardware Kit
1225 – Replacement Cartridge

SBW#12 – Whirlpool Electric Dryer Thermostat Replacement

My electric Whirlpool dryer stopped drying because the heating element stopped working. I decided to take it apart and see if it was worth fixing or not. After all, fixing something many times is much more cost effective than replacing something outright. Please note that fixing a high voltage, high temperature appliance such as an electric dryer should only be done if you are comfortable doing so as incorrect repairs may result in electric shock or fires.

Once I opened the unit up I found the Hi-Limit thermostat had essential destroyed itself. Generally this will happen if it is not working properly AND one of the lower temperature setting thermostats also fails.

Fixing it was not really that time consuming or difficult. Once I had it open I was able to match the OEM part numbers with replacement parts. One of the parts had be discontinued so I had to use an adjustable thermostat. I just needed to set it to the correct operating temperature as denoted by the instruction table that it came with for the adjustable thermostat.

Once the parts arrived I removed the Hi-Limit thermostat with fell apart when I removing it. I had to put in a pig-tail wire (10AWG) matching the original wiring. This was required because the original had over heated and burned the wire. The the Hi-Limit thermostat replaced I turned my attention to the other thermostats. I needed to figure out which was bad. At cool temperature a continuity check of all three of them showed they were good. So, one (or more) had to fail at the shutoff point. You can check this by putting them on a skillet or griddle and raising the temperature to the point where they are supposed to trip. In the case of mine, there’s a about a 5 to 10 degree difference between each one.

However, since I did not really feel like taking them all out I decided to run the dryer and start at the low setting. If it turned off prior to the Hi-Limit, it was good. I proceeded through all of them and one failed. I replaced this one with the adjustable thermostat setting the temperature to setting D which for my part was 150F. I hooked everything back up and did one final temperature check cycling through each setting. Everything was working perfectly again.

Finally since I had the back of the dryer open I decided to clean up the lint. This is always a good idea to do once in a while to prevent lint build up which can be a fire hazard. About 3/4 the way through vacuuming I realize my Shopvac was not fully snapped down so small dust, dirt and drywall particles start flying around the room. I guess I had to clean that mess up now as well!

The replacement parts I used were from www.appliancepartspros.com. They provided easy ordering and quick shipping. My adjustable thermostat did not come with the instruction table so I contact them via chat and they were able to email me a PDF of the instructions. This was great service.

Hi-Limit Thermostat – https://www.appliancepartspros.com/whirlpool-hi-limit-thermostat-279052-ap3094087.html

Adjustable dryer cycling thermostat – https://www.appliancepartspros.com/whirlpool-thermostat-adj-wp694674-ap6010610.html

 

SBW#11 – Turn Knob Socket Replacement

Have you ever went to turn on a lamp – one with a turn knob – and it just does not turn on but the knob turns without clicking? Well, that is what has happened to me. There is no need to throw away that lamp and buy a new one. I paid about $5 for a new turn knob socket at one of the big box stores. It does not take much time at all to replace and is quite satisfying when that light turns back on.

So, if you have a problem like this, hopefully you will find this video handy and it can save you some money.

In this video I show what I did to change out the failed turn knob socket from start to finish. The process is quite simple. Please give a thumbs up and do not forget to subscribe.

 

SBW#10 – Small Tire Inner Tube Replacement

I went to use my Harbor Freight hand truck and one of the tires was flat. I aired it up and went to use it but it quickly went flat again. Turns out I had a hole in the inner tube and it needed replacing. I purchased a replacement inner tube (4.10/3.50) for the wheel at Harbor Freight.

So, if you have a problem like this, hopefully you will find this video handy and it can save you some money.

In this video I show what I did to change that inner from start to finish. The process is quite simple. Please give a thumbs up and do not forget to subscribe.

 

SBW#9 – Leaking Kenmore Dishwasher

As I walked into my kitchen I noticed a trail of water from my dishwasher to my kitchen table. The last thing you need to deal with in the morning when you walk into your kitchen is a leaking dishwasher. That’s exactly what happened to me.

So I went to looking and feeling around and figured out the problem was not some leaking pipe but was instead the rubber impeller gasket had started to come out of the plastic channel it is in. How would something like this happen? Well, as it turns out I am assuming either vibration or by some other means one of the impeller housing screws had come out and another was loose.

Fixing it is not that hard of a job. All I had to do was remove the lower dish rack, unscrew the lower washer spinner and correct the issue with the impeller housing. In less than 30 minutes and my problem was solved.

So, if you have a problem like this, hopefully you will find this video handy and it can save you some money.

Below is the video of how I fixed this leaky problem. Please give a thumbs up and do not forget to subscribe.

 

SBW#8 – A Loose Bathroom Faucet Handle

I do not know about you but I noticed my bathroom faucet handle getting loose. It would rock back and forth like the top was pivoting on the handle riser.

So my first thought was to pop the cap on top and tighten the screw that would be found under there. To my surprise there was no screw. After doing some research I discovered you have to remove the entire handle assembly from the value body and tighten the screw from the underside of the handle.

As it turns out this is really only a 5 minute job if everything is cooperating with you. If not, then it may require you to get something like a rubber grip to get a good enough grasp on the riser to unscrew it. After all, if your faucet is much like mine water gets around the handle riser causing dirt and mineral buildup to “glue” it down.

Below is the video of how I tightened up my handle. Please give a thumbs up and do not forget to subscribe.

SBW#7 – Central Machinery Belt Sander Assembly and Review

Some time ago I purchased a Central Machinery 4″ x 36″ Belt and 6″ Disk Sander. For the longest time I had just clamped by 3″ wide portable belt sander upside down and used it like a stationary one but I found that as I used it with more projects I need a wider/longer table to do quality work.

As a result, I foray in this realm is with a bench top model from Harbor Freight. While I know most of the time their tools will not pass the longevity test, it made a good starter.

I unboxed it and started to assembly this unit and could already tell that would be the case.

One of the things I took notice of was the dust collection system on this device was not very robust. In fact, I am not sure how it even manages to work with a 1/2″ dust port on the disk sander dust guard definitely limits the cfm that you need to move dust. The port under the belt was better but certainly not what I was expecting. Perhaps this was designed to be hooked up to a small shopvac? I am not sure but my 4″ system could easily swallow the dust guards themselves.

The other thing that bothered me was the bed for the belt had a twist in it. It is one thing for the bed to be not square but with a twist in it, well, that will not necessarily make straight edges. I do believe though I can twist it back in shape but still I should not have to do that for a new piece of equipment.

Using the sander though was much nicer than my old setup. Even with the same grit sandpaper it seemed to easily take on the jobs I threw at it. Perhaps that is because the motor was just better than a portable one and therefore did not bog down as much. Plus, it comes with the added bonus of having lower decibels than my old portable Skill Belt Sander.

Overall, assembly was smooth minus some force needed to get the rubber feet on, overall stability is not great but good considering the price point. Longevity has yet to be determined. The two major downsides that I have found was the twist in the bed and dust collection – who needs one for a high dust creating device right?

Below is the video of the assembly. If you enjoy it, please give a thumbs up and do not forget to subscribe.

 

SBW #6 – ReadyNAS NV Power Supply Replacement

What happens when you add high BTU electronic components with cramped IC design? You get a dead power supply. No, this is a not a duplicate post but it is essentially the same problem as my other post about a ReadyNAS 1100.

This is what happened to my ReadyNAS NV a couple of weeks ago when I had to have some electrical work done I had to have the power shut off for an extended time so I had to power the unit down. When it was okay to power things back up this device would not power back on.

So based on the response I was getting when I hit the power button I suspected that the power supply had failed since I have had this unit do this before. I opened up the case and took a look at the PSU and I could only see one swollen capacitor so yes, more than likely the PSU had failed. In either case, a swollen capacitor or capacitors are ticking time bombs with electronics.

Rather than purchase an overpriced OEM replacement I purchased an ATX power supply with nearly the same specifications. No, I’m not getting any money from linking the power supply but in the event anyone wanted to know what I used, there it is. I had read in some ReadyNAS forum posts on how to convert the ATX power supply to the same pin out that ReadyNAS used and  things looked good. To do swap the pins I used another reference on how to make a pin puller using paperclips. These were the same paper clips I used prior but I had to flatten them out a little more for this unit.

After swapping around the pins to match the ReadyNAS specifications I was able to power up the NAS.

Additionally because the new ATX power supply had a fan in it I had to use my hole saw to cut a hole in the back of the bottom of the NAS chassis which holds the PSU so the fan could exhaust air out the back. I figured this was a little better “design” than before as the OEM unit did not have a fan in the PSU. Keeping the fan also forced me to keep the new PSU’s top cover which did not have clips for the air shield to mount on so I had to use some silicon that had the ability to handle high temperatures.

The following video shows the process I used. Hopefully if someone is in the same boat as I was this video will help out.

SBW #5 – ReadyNAS 1100 Power Supply Replacement

What happens when you add high BTU electronic components with cramped IC design? You get a dead power supply.

This is what happened to my ReadyNAS 1100 late last year. Replacing the power supply was on my to-do list for some time. Luckily I didn’t have anything urgently important on this device as it was merely one of several devices I use as backup storage. However, with another one of my NAS devices having a failure this to-do item had become more important.

So based on the response I was getting when I hit the power button I suspected that the power supply had failed. I opened up the case and took a look at the PSU and I could see scorch marks and swollen capacitors so yes, more than likely the PSU had fried.

Rather than purchase an overpriced OEM replacement I purchased an ATX power supply with nearly the same specifications. No, I’m not getting any money from linking the power supply but in the event anyone wanted to know what I used, there it is. I had read in some ReadyNAS forum posts on how to convert the ATX power supply to the same pin out that ReadyNAS used and  things looked good. To do swap the pins I used another reference on how to make a pin puller using paperclips.

After swapping around the pins to match the ReadyNAS specifications I was able to power up the NAS.

The following video shows the process I used. Hopefully if someone is in the same boat as I was this video will help out.