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SBW#39 – Kitchen Cabinet Build Part 13 – Base Cabinet Sides

How you design and join your cabinet sides can greatly affect the durability and stability of your cabinets. Like the upper cabinets I created, I am going to follow the same process of using a 1/4″ dado for the base cabinet bottom in which will be glued and stapled together.

If you lack the space as I do to have an entire cabinet assembly line then you need to get creative on creating them. The process that I explain below is how I created all my base cabinets for my kitchen in a very limited size basement shop.

The first step I did was break down the sheet goods roughly in half. That is because when you cut a 48″ wide sheet of plywood you end up with 2 – 24″ wide pieces. Since I’m making face-framed cabinets by cabinet carcass will need to be 23 1/4″ wide which allows me to cut a little off both sides or all of one side to get down to that final needed dimension.

However, I’m still in the rough-cut mode so I’ll leave it at 24″ for now. The next step I do to speed up the process is stacking the two halves on top of each other. This allows me to rough cut the height of the cabinet which is 34 1/2″ at twice the speed. I use my DIY straight edge or Track Saw to do this.

After cutting the number of needed sides I switch to using my panel sled for my table saw to cut the sides down to their final dimensions. This sled which is easy to make has a very long runner that fits into my table saw’s miter track which allows the sled to extend beyond the infeed area of my saw yet maintain squareness.

I cut all the sides down to their final sizes using one side as a reference so the tops and bottoms are parallel with each other and square to the one side.

My next step is to draw our reference lines on one side panel so I can ensure everything is correct before making all the cuts since I’m going to making the same cut on each side and then switching to the next cut repeating the process. This allows for consistent cuts on each side panel.

I double-check everything is going to look fine using a small face frame before starting any cuts using scrap material. As it does, I’m ready to begin the side-cutting process.

Now ideally you’ll start with any cross-grain cuts on the veneer. For me, this would be the bottom shelf dado. This if you’re cutting a rabbit on the back of the side panel for the back to slide into it will clean up any tear-out. I however did not do this. I cut the rabbit first and then the dado so I had to cut the bottom shelf dado very slowly and carefully to avoid tear-out along the back.

I threw my sacrificial fence on my rip fence since I was going to bury part of my dado blade into it to cut that back panel dado. Then after cutting that, I removed the sacrificial fence and proceeded to cut the bottom shelf dados after double-checking and dialing in the cut.

With all the side panels rabbits and dados cut I end up with mirrored side panels which you can fold together to visualize how things will lay out.

As always if you have any questions or comments post them below or on my YouTube video comments section and I’ll do my best to respond.

I’ve included a few Amazon Links below for the equipment and materials I used.

Equipment and Materials

I hope you find this video useful and can use some of the tips presented. Feel free to leave any comments, suggestions, or experiences you have had below.

Some of the links in my video description and article above are Amazon Affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. If you would like to make a different purchase from Amazon, you can also use the storewide link.


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SBW#38 – Bosch PR20EVS Palm Router Review

Need a small palm router to do flush trim work? Then the Bosch PR20EVS Palm Router may be for you. This little router is a strong workhorse for being under $90(at the time of this article). It was able to flush-trim 3/4 inch stock without any problems on the project I was working on.

Cost and Quality often times help dictate what you buy. However, availability also will contribute. But what if none of those apply to you because you have a lot of different routers available? Then I’d say go with quality.

This little Bosch PR20EVS router comes well packed to avoid damage during shipping and handling. Unboxing the router was not a frustration either like some products. It did not have all those wire ties, zip ties, or tape to hold it in place. The cardboard inserts were folded to lock it and its components in place to avoid damage.

The router of course came with all the standard paperwork – instruction manual in multiple languages, warning insert, and warranty form. All were pretty easy to understand and the warranty offered a mail-in or online fill-out. I don’t know about you but I like online forms much better than mail-in ones.

The router baseplate is removable to allow for an easy bit change. It has a quick release to allow for quick depth adjustment followed by a fine adjustment wheel with 3/64 inch adjustments per revolution. The baseplate also had a clear acrylic plate attached to an aluminum bottom frame. This allows for easy replacement if the acrylic gets damaged.

The two open-ended wrenches to tighten or loosen the collet appear to be made from forged steel rather than just stamped sheet steel. This eliminates the flex in the tool which can cause frustration if they ever bend, you know what I mean if this has happened to you. It comes with 10mm and 17mm to fit on the spindle shaft and the collet respectively.

This is a corded router and not a battery-powered one. However, the cord for the router is xxx feet long which makes it very usable on large projects. The cord even comes with a ferrite magnet to reduce EMI (electromagnetic interference). This is to reduce noise and filter out unwanted external interference for cleaner operation on the motor.

The unit itself has an easy-to-reach power switch that is conveniently located when your hand is on the ergonomic palm grip. On top of the spindle, it has a variable speed adjustment to control the speed from 16k to 35k speed.

I used a 1/4 inch shank 1/2 inch flush trim bit in my to test it routing an edge board on a sheet of plywood. This project was part of my Kitchen Cabinet Build Series and you can see that project here. The router was able to flush-trim this 3/4 inch thick material without any problems.

Would I recommend this router? For the cost that it is, yes. If you prefer battery-powered then this router is not for you. You can check out the Bosch PR20EVS Palm Router on Amazon if you want to get more details.

I hope you find this video useful and can use some of the tips presented. Feel free to leave any comments, suggestions, or experiences you have had below.

Some of the links in my video description and article above are Amazon Affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. If you would like to make a different purchase from Amazon, you can also use the storewide link.


Looking for a Gift Idea? Visit the Amazon Gift Hub


Some of the links on this site are Amazon Affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.