Tag Archives: SBW

SBW#22 – Nerf Dart Repair

Ever had your Nerf dart tips fall off? If have you a Nerf gun, chances are that answer is yes. They are easier to fix than what you might think and in fact the time needed to fix them is quite fast.

Tips broken off
Tips glued back on with Aleene’s Original Tacky Glue

Before gluing them back together, you will want to pick off as much as the old glue as you can taking care not to damage the foam from the barrel of the dart. Once you have the glue picked off the foam, next turn to get the old glue and foam off the dart tip.

Once the prep has been complete apply a bead of glue around the tip of the dart that inserts into the foam. Then insert the tip back into the foam barrel giving it several twists to spread the glue out evenly.

Next wipe off any glue squeeze out with a paper towel or cloth. Allow the glue to drive for the recommended amount of time before placing the dart back into use. I generally give this about 24 hours.

The video below shows the process in which I went about fixing them. I used Nerf Mega Darts but this also works for other darts such as N-Strike Darts.

I’ve included a few Amazon Links below if you would rather buy brand new darts instead of gluing the tips back on.

Parts Used

The links in my video description and article above are Amazon Affiliate links, which means at no extra cost to you, I will make a small commission if you click them and make a qualifying purchase. If you would like to make different purchase from Amazon, you can also use the storewide link.

SBW#21 – Table Saw Pulley AND Belt Upgrade

While building my cabinets for my kitchen remodel it became apparent I needed to stop fighting my table saw’s pulleys and belt and upgrade them. What do I mean by this? For years I had dealt with the aluminum pulleys working loose causing a rattle and vibration.

How does something like this happen? Simple – as the v-belt runs around the pulleys it creates heat. Aluminum expands and contracts because of this heat. When it expands the set screw can work itself out a little bit or slide on the shafts. Eventually, you end up with the pulley falling off or rattling which causes the entire saw to vibrate.

How does someone go about solving this problem? Reduce the heat being generated by a link belt maybe? That may reduce the frequency but still generates some heat. How about completely replacing the aluminum pulleys with steel pulleys and a link belt? Bingo! That is what I ended up doing with my table saw which resulted in quite a bit a difference.

First things first I ordered a Grizzly T21992 Power Twist V-Belt and two Gates AK25 Light Duty pulleys – one for the motor and one for the arbor. Next patiently wait for them to arrive except I couldn’t due to the kitchen remodel timelines so I just kept fighting the factory equipment.

Once arriving I pulled the old pulleys off – the one on the motor required some convincing it wanted to be removed – I used penetrating oil for this.

I had to file down the shaft key for the key way because was a little too snug to fit in the slot ground in on the pulleys. Once that was done I slid the pulleys on, tapped the key in and set the link belt size to the appropriate length following the directions provided with it.

Boy was I amazed the difference both in the sound and smoothness of the cutting. I really wish I had made this upgrade prior to almost finishing my cabinets because I could have saved a lot of time tightening down the set screws over and over again while ripping Maple and Plywood. My cuts also would have been much cleaner too without all the vibration.

Below you will find a video on the process I went about doing it. I hope you find it useful and it improves your woodworking level.

The links in my video description and article above are Amazon Affiliate links, which means at no extra cost to you, I will make a small commission if you click them and make a qualifying purchase. If you would like to make different purchase from Amazon, you can also use the storewide link.

SBW#20 – Vertical Blind Slat Replacement

For whatever reason you need to replace vertical blind slat. For me the need arose from a wild soccer ball in the house by a child that should know better than to kick it in the house. As a result, that stray ball resulted in cracking a chunk of one of our vertical blind slats out.

Time to replace that broken unsightly slat. The process is really quite simple and anyone can do it really quickly and at a cost significantly less than replacing the whole blind or paying someone to do it.

First things first – you’ll need to procure a new slat or slats depending on how many need replacing. In order to get a slat that matches as close as possible you should check to see if you can get the slat replacement for your particular manufacture. For me, I couldn’t find one so I turned to Amazon to purchase PVC Vertical Blind Replacement Slat (white).

I measured the width and length and took note of the color and the curvature of the slat. Mine are slight curved and not flat. Pretty simple. 3.5″ by at least 67″ in white color. As long as the replacement was at least that I should be good. After all I could always cut to length if it was too long so the width, color and curvature was the most important to me.

I purchased a replacement PVC slat and once it was delivered I measured out the appropriate length, cut it with a pair of scissors and went to work.

After taking down the broken slat I laid it next to the new one so I could get the exact length. I draw a line and cut it with a normal pair of scissors.

Once cutting was complete all I had to do was snap it back in place on the vertical blind stem. To see how vertical blind stems are replaced read my SBW#14 – Graber Vertical Blind Repair article.

This video illustrates how I went about replacing the slat is a quick and easy task to complete.

Parts Used

Amazon Link: PVC Vertical Blind Replacement Slat (white).

SBW#19 – Quick Toilet Flapper Replacement

Every hear that slight little trickle of water running from your toilet tank to the bowl? That sound of the toilet refilling when you did not flush? Well, if you did, you are not alone.

One day I noticed my toilet in my bathroom just started randomly refilling. Since I had this same problem with a toilet in a different bathroom I had a good idea the toilet flapper was worn out.

At first I thought I’d just clean the bottom of the flapper and the rim where the flapper sits to make a seal. Maybe this was solve my problem and for a few days it seemed to slow down the problem but it still persisted. Time to replace the flapper.

Replacing the flapper is really a simple process and you don’t need any special tools (or plumber) to do it. Simple purchase a new one, remove the old one and put the new one back in the tank.

This is not for the faint of heart. You’re going to get your hands wet and you’re going to see the mechanical parts in the toilet tank. After all, what could be worse with dealing with a toilet – the clean side or the used side?!

The particular toilet flapper I use is a Korky Universal Flapper – namely the 2004BP model. It has a 5 year warranty, an adjustable float and is relatively easy to install.

Now the scare part once you have your new flapper. Remove the tank lid off the back of your toilet and reach in, remove the old one and install the new one.

Not so scary after all. Watch the video below to see how quick and easy this process can be.

Amazon Link:
Korky Universal Flapper – 2004BP

SBW#18 – Straight Edge Sled

How often do you go to use a piece of wood you purchased from a home center or even a hardware dealer and neither edge is straight? You certainly don’t want to try to cut a curve on your table saw and trying to guestimate a straight cut can be difficult and dangerous at best case.

So, with this handy inexpensive jig for your table saw you can create a nice clean straight edge on that piece of lumber that you once deemed not very good to use.

What you will need for this project is some toggle clamps and a piece of manufactured sheet good. I used simple 500lb vertical toggle clamps that I picked up from a home center and piece of MDF I had laying around. The length of the MDF in this case determines the maximum length of the piece of would you can cleanly cut. While the vertical toggle clamp links are not exactly the ones I used, I have provide amazon links to ones equivalent.

I simply mounted the vertical toggle clamps to a riser board and the MDF so I could clamp down material that I typically use.

The video below shows the process in which I used to create this and straighten a piece of material that was severely crowned.

Amazon Link
Vertical Toggle Clamp

SBW#17 – Quickly fix LED Christmas Decorations

We’ve all had it happen before if you use LED Christmas light decorations or for that matter, non-LED ones. You plug in the set and some or all of them are not lighting up.

This quick video below shows how I quickly troubleshot and fixed a LED Christmas decoration. This time I got lucky in that one of my first steps of tapping or twisting each nonfunctional light appeared indicate the LED having the issue. This is not always the case. Many times I need to use the LED Keeper or Light Keeper Pro (for incandescent lights) to determine which bulb is causing the issue.

Unfortunately, this video does not cover using any of those tools since the tap/twist method worked first. Even though I did not use those tools I have went ahead and linked them below. They are pretty straight forward to use if you follow the directions. If I get a set that requires their use or people request it, I will make a video with them.

Below is a quick video on how I fixed this light up LED Christmas decoration.

Amazon Links:
LED Keeper
Light Keeper Pro

SBW#16 – How to Make a Table Saw Auxiliary Rip Fence

Have you ever needed an longer, perhaps a sacrificial rip fence on your table saw? Then you should read ahead.

This is exactly what I needed to perform some tasks that required a longer rip fence than my table saw provided. While the current fence I have is pretty versatile for a stock contractor rip fence it lacks both in length past the table top and the ability to really clap good sacrificial or tall fence additions on.

So, this where I decided to create a quick basic fence that allows me to easily clamp on additional height past my working area – since my working area not only is for the saw on the table saw but also for the router that is mounted on a table saw extension.

I made mine out of some scrap 3/4 MDF and some scrap Popular boards I had laying around after a previous project. The fence is 4 foot long and a few inches taller than my table saw’s stock fence.

In this video I show the process I went about making the rip fence in which I later use in my massive kitchen cabinet building project. I hope you find this video helpful.

Amazon Links:
Bessey 3″ Spring Clamp
Bessey Spring Clamp Set

Project Update

So it’s been almost a month since I’ve posted anything. There’s a great reason for that. I’ve been spending crazy amounts of time getting a new kitchen cabinet set complete prior to my kitchen renovation. After all, why buy inferior cabinets or over priced high quality ones when you can make them yourself right?

That said so far I’ve ended up with nearly 200 raw videos of making this entire set, which to meet the deadlines I have, leaves very little time for editing all those videos into my Kitchen Cabinet Series.

Once I get everything complete I should have more time to edit the videos and get some video content posted.

In the meantime however here are some progress pictures.

First there was one cabinet, then two, then three … you get the picture.

SBW#15 – Dresser Drawer Repair

Do you have a dresser drawer that has a bottom that has sagged down? I had this happen to me with both my daughter and son’s dressers. As it turns out the fix for both of them is really simple, it just required a little time for some glue up.

So, first things first – you need to unload the contents of the dresser drawer and pull the drawer out. In my case to remove the drawer was as easy as fully extending it and giving it a slight lift up at the drawer front while pulling out. This allowed the slides to separate and the drawer to be removed.

Once I had the drawer removed I just had to separate the back of the drawer box from the rest. This allowed the drawer bottom to slide out. My solution was to put a small strip of wood underneath the front of the drawer bottom panel. In order to glue it up I needed to remove any finish and stain that was on the backside of the drawer front. If you skip this part chances are the glue to hold the strip of wood on will not adhere. I used Titebond Wood Glue to glue the small strip I cut, clamping to keep some pressure on it.

Once the strip was glued in, I added glue to the groove the drawer bottom slid into and slid the drawer bottom back in. I then screwed the drawer box back panel back on. I continued by wiping up any glue squeeze out and let the glue set up over night.

Then it was just putting the drawer back in the dresser and putting the contents back in.

In this video I show what I did to fix the drawer. I hope you find this video helpful.

Amazon Link:
Titebond Original

Pause in Updates

First let me say it has been a while since I have made an update. This is partly in fact because I have several on-going projects that I am working on along with busy spring / summer activities. Several are complete but I have not had time to edit the raw videos into a nice presentation and the others are ongoing still.

So – what is done but not edited yet?

I painted the walls and refinished the floors in our spare bedroom. This is where we planned on moving our daughter into from her smaller child room. Here is just one of the pictures of the floor. After she was moved into this room I got a chance to do the same (paint and refinish) to her old room.

My son’s dresser drawer bottoms were falling out on 2 of his drawers so I need to fix them. Who hasn’t purchased clothes furniture that has 1/8″ thick drawer bottoms and not had issues like this?

I built a longer sacrificial fence for my table saw. This will be used for a project that I’m currently working on – Complete Kitchen Cabinet Replacement. You can even notice some of the rough Maple lumber to the upper left for that project.

So what is in progress?

Here are 5 of the 14 face frames I need to make for our new kitchen cabinets. The frames will be maple painted white with Maple veneered plywood for the cabinet boxes with a clear finish – at least that’s the plan.