Tag Archives: Upper Cabinets


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SBW#56 – Kitchen Cabinet Build Part 23 – Cabinet End Wainscoting

In building my kitchen cabinets I did not want just plain boring cabinet ends but I also did not want over-the-top cabinet ends. So I believe I came up with an elegant solution that is both easy to do and matches the front of my cabinets – Shaker Style Wainscoting on the ends!

First, what is wainscoting? Wainscoting simply put is wooden paneling that lines part of a panel. In my case, it would mimic the Shaker door rail and stile profile I was currently using including the thickness from the panel in the door.

Now that we have that out of the way how did I go about doing this? Well, my Rockler Router Bit Set-Up Jig Shaker Stile and Rail Router Bits would provide the profile design. I just needed to use the top 3rd of the jig profile – that little part that contains the 10-degree cut angle.

My first step was to rip some 1/4″ thick material the same width as door frame rails and stiles. This would create the uniformity I was looking for. However, rather than just rip it at 90 degrees, I would set the saw blade to 80 degrees and rip that slanted edge into it.

Once I had the material ripped I needed to cut the end profile cut. This was done at my compound miter saw by setting the bevel at 10 degrees and laying the material flat on the bed. You could use this same cut on the table saw if you’re careful using a crosscut sled or a miter gauge. You could also do this same cut at a non-compound miter saw by setting the angle to 10 degrees and cutting the material on the edge but you’d have to make sure you were cutting with the material in the right orientation. For me, a 10-degree bevel on the compound and flat material was the easiest and most accurate.

I only cut 1 end as I wanted the other end to be the tightest I could get. So after clamping the style parts to the side of the cabinets I marked and cut the other end by slowing shaving off as little as possible until I got the perfect fit.

Now, because I knew I was going to do this from the beginning I knew I didn’t have to deal with any staples or pocket hole screws on the finished cabinet sides as this was a great cover for those.

So, I put glue on each piece and pin-nailed them down with my 23 gauge pin nailer. This provided near-invisible pins that are easily hidden and require minimal filling later. After 3 of the 4 slats were glued and pinned onto the sides I clamped and weighted them down for the glue to setup up. This is where the real fastening strength was coming from.

After completing all these mechanical and chemical fastening steps I proceeded to fill any pins or cracks with wood filler. This would allow for a perfectly smooth finish.

I then sanded the all for wainscoting slats down with my random orbital sander down to 220 grit sandpaper.

The final part of this puzzle will come after I attach the face frames to the cabinet carcasses in which the final wainscoting stile would cover up the pocket hole screws.

And for those who want some stats, the video below is a result of 19 videos totaling 32 minutes, 21 seconds edited down to 7 minutes, and 35 seconds.

As always if you have any questions or comments post them below or on my YouTube video comments section and I’ll do my best to respond.

I’ve included a few Amazon Links below for the equipment and materials I used.

Equipment and Materials

I hope you find this video useful and can use some of the tips presented. Feel free to leave any comments, suggestions, or experiences you have had below.

Some of the links in my video description and article above are Amazon Affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. If you would like to make a different purchase from Amazon, you can also use the storewide link.

SBW#36 – Kitchen Cabinet Build Part 11 – Assembling The Carcass

After a long adventure, we are at the point where we are assembling a cabinet carcass. In my previous 10 Kitchen Cabinet Build Series, we went from milling the raw wood, cutting components to size, building face frames, sanding, drilling shelving pins, and dry fitting. Today we are finally at the point where we can assemble the cabinet carcass. We’re not going to attach the face frame because it will be painted and the carcass will be clear finished with polyurethane.

First things first a word from our sponsor so I can pay my bills – me – “If you’ve liked the Kitchen Cabinet Build Series or any other woodworking articles feel read more or watch more of my videos over on my YouTube Channel – Sean Moenkhoff. Feel free to support my efforts by clicking on my Amazon site-wide affiliate link to help me out. Now back to our normal scheduled article.”

Depending on the size of the carcass and how much you need to glue up you probably want to organize everything you need before the first drop of glue hitting any wood since the glue has a set time and you’ll be on the clock.

Organizing all components

I first start by laying one side down and putting glue in the dado cuts. Then I attached the top and bottom components. Now I didn’t lay this flat (backside down) on the ground although you can make it just as easy to reach everything but the back.

You can notice that I drilled the shelving pin holes before assembly. This was done using Rockler JIG IT Shelving Jig and 1/4″ Bit Set. I do this because it is much easier to drill them consistently when you’re not constricted by the tops and bottoms. You can read more about that in Kitchen Cabinet Build Part 10 – Shelving Pin Holes, Sanding and Dry-Fit.

On this first cabinet, I did not use anything other than the chemical attachment properties of Titebond II glue. No fasteners are holding the sides to the tops and bottoms, just clamping pressure using my PONY 52 Pipe Clamps. It’s important to ensure the front of your cabinet top, bottom, and sides are all flush otherwise your face frame will have gaps when you attach it. If any glue squeezes out from the joints it’s best to remove it now while it is still wet. Otherwise, it will be more difficult to remove and glue does not take stain.

Clamping the sides to the top and bottom components

Once I was done with the top, bottom, and sides I flipped the carcass over so the back was up. I added glue along the rabbits cut into the sides and the top and bottom pieces. I dropped it in the back panel and stapled this in. I did 3 corners and started made sure the back was squarely fit in place and then stapled all down the sides of the back until I had gone completely around. Since I was using 1/4″ back material I only needed 1/2 inch staples to hold it in place, keeping in mind that the chemical bond of the Titebond II will also add strength.

Once all stapled and glued together I measured the diagonals to ensure squareness. The diagonals should measure the same if you’re square. If not, you can use a clamp along them to force the carcass square – much like I did in my face frame gluing article.

I verified the dimensions by just clamping the face frame on. Before I permanently attach the face frame I want to paint it. If you’re finishing the carcass and face frame the same you could attach it now if you want.

Measure both diagonals and adjust using clamps until they are equal

I checked the squareness one last time with a framing square and everything looked great.

Please keep in mind this is a simple square box cabinet that is only 12 inches deep. More complex cabinetry requires additional planning, clamping, and/or different steps for assembly.

As always if you have any questions or comments post them below or on my YouTube video comments section and I’ll do my best to respond.

I’ve included a few Amazon Links below for the equipment and materials I used.

Equipment and Materials

I hope you find this video useful and can use some of the tips presented. Feel free to leave any comments, suggestions, or experiences you have had below.

https://youtu.be/Dg3PK3wtvRc

Some of the links in my video description and article above are Amazon Affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. If you would like to make a different purchase from Amazon, you can also use the storewide link.